May 2020
Time
Gâteau? Usually less complicated than one’s relationship with time. The student of literature might think of Proust’s madeleine, the journey on which this petit gâteau takes the narrator of A la recherche du temps perdu [...]
April 2020
Epidemics and Eateries
Seeing cafés and other eateries closed for weeks on end from Paris to New York City because of the COVID-19 pandemic can be unsettling, but there is some reassuring aspect to knowing that similar precautions [...]
March 2020
From Buttered Bread to Bravery
Ingesting vinegar-soaked sorrel or medicinal lemon syrup may or may not be of much help in times of plague, whereas “Le courage, le sang-froid, la frugalité, sont les meilleurs préservatifs"— this proposal is found on page 330 of [...]
February 2020
Where to Begin
Tchékam. San-Phao. Kouang-Tchéou-Wan. Tsamkong. Chamin/Shameen. I have heard of these place names since childhood, blissfully unaware that they were part of the French Concession circa 1899 to 1946 (France had started occupying part of Chamin/Shameen [...]
December 2019
Au marché
What might catch your eye at the marketplace? A load of grapes being taken from or hoisted onto a harvester’s back? A pickpocket? Someone’s grocery basket despite the snowstorm? The shopper over there? That child [...]
November 2019
Boycotting Sugar Produced by Enslaved People
“Dr. Knowles, a physician of worthy character in London, had occasion to recommend a diet to a patient, of which sugar composed a material part. His patient refused to submit to his prescription, and gave [...]